Three Sheets Northwest: Exploring Nature vs. Nurture in the Great Outdoors

As we navigated carefully through the islets and jagged rocks leading into Walters Cove, we were acutely aware of the potential risks. Running aground in this secluded area on Vancouver Island’s northwest coast was a scenario we wanted to avoid at all costs.

Raindrops dripped from our foulie hoods as we gazed at the modest homes lining the craggy shoreline, all enveloped in a swirling mist. The stillness of the air was palpable, and we hadn’t spotted anyone outside. As we approached the sturdy government pier, designed to service commercial fishing vessels, we noticed that the dock was mostly unoccupied. We dug deep into the lazarette for our fenders and mooring lines, which had remained unused during our recent nights spent at anchor.

The conjoined communities of Kyuquot Village and Fair Harbour, housing several hundred residents, stand as a testament to modern life in this rugged region. To us, after our recent travels, they felt like a welcoming metropolis.

Having embarked on our 2022 circumnavigation of Vancouver Island aboard our Passport 40 sailboat, Rounder, we had already explored the Gulf Islands, Desolation Sound, and the Broughtons. As we journeyed further north, water traffic diminished, alleviating any concerns about finding good anchorages—there was always ample space to swing.

We successfully navigated the dangers of Cape Scott and the Brooks Peninsula before spending several tranquil days at anchor in the Bunsby Islands, a serene locale shaped by nature’s whims over centuries. While we cherished that solitude, we were ready to engage with the local community once again.

For some cruising boaters, the ultimate goal is to escape the chaos of modern life—being the sole boat in a remote anchorage, finding peace in isolation. Others are drawn to waterfront towns and cities, eager to explore new communities, attractions, and local eateries. For my partner Deborah and me—and many fellow cruising enthusiasts—we love to strike a balance between the two.

Over the past two decades, we have sailed the Salish Sea, progressively expanding our cruising grounds and confidence. Our journeys have consistently been influenced by a desire to experience both the breathtaking beauty of nature and the richness of local culture in towns along the way.

Walters Cove offered the comfort we sought. It felt both familiar and unique, a blend of what we appreciated about coastal communities. Kyuquot Village, a First Nations settlement of around 300 people, was a sight to behold. Across the cove lay Fair Harbour, featuring a handful of homes, a rustic fishing resort, and a charming inn with cabins and a café that overlooked the water. Accessible via a wooded path, the café also acted as a community hub, providing slow yet welcome public Wi-Fi access to the outside world.

After securing our boat at the wharf, we braved the steep ramp in our wet foulies to visit the local store/post office/harbormaster office. The friendly staff welcomed us warmly and informed us that we could moor at the government dock for a few nights. Our timing was perfect; a supply ship had just delivered fresh fruits, vegetables, and other groceries meant for the local residents.

We only picked up a head of lettuce, a bag of cherries, and some half-and-half, mindful that these supplies were intended for the local community rather than for boaters with ample provisions onboard.

Years ago, during my first overnight cruise with Deborah, we visited Blake Island in central Puget Sound. Despite the downtown Seattle skyline being in view from the beach, the island offered a sense of seclusion and distance from home. The glimmering city across the water contrasted with the island’s tranquil forests and trails, accessible only by boat, creating a perfect blend of adventure and comfort.

Throughout the years, our journeys—ranging from Olympia to Southeast Alaska—have led us to some of our most memorable moments in secluded anchorages. Watching wildlife as we swung on the hook, with the summer sun setting around us, provided entertainment far superior to any film or television show.

In the early days of our life together as cruising partners, we left our Seattle home base for the faraway shores of… Tacoma. Had we been traveling by car, we might never have considered spending a weekend in Tacoma. But arriving by boat transformed it into a delightful experience. We enjoyed visiting museums, exploring downtown, and sipping pints at a local pub.

As we departed at the end of a long weekend, I remarked how arriving by boat makes any town seem like a charming seaside village. I was half-joking, but this sentiment has proven true across many stops over the years.

This summer, we chose to stay closer to home, setting off in late June for a leisurely cruise through the San Juan Islands and southern British Columbia. Friday Harbor was an ideal spot to celebrate my birthday with friends over delicious food and drinks. A few days later, we enjoyed outstanding Fourth of July fireworks at Roche Harbor, where we rafted alongside five other boats for the festivities.

However, after the celebrations ended on July 5th, we were eager to unwind. We set sail for Garrison Bay, anchoring there for three tranquil days filled with daily hikes through the national park and nearby trails.

Looking ahead, we plan to maintain the balance between lively communities and serene nature, enjoying both experiences over the coming weeks. This dual pleasure is what makes the investment and effort of owning a boat in the Pacific Northwest truly worthwhile. These cruising grounds are among the best in the world, thanks in part to the seamless integration of natural beauty and vibrant communities.

By the time we were ready to depart Walters Cove, the rain had ceased, and the mist had lifted. With the delightful taste of a freshly made sandwich from the café lingering in our mouths, we pushed off from the government dock, stowed our lines and fenders back in the lazarette, and carefully navigated our way back through the channel into the rolling seas of the island’s west coast. We had met some friendly and fascinating locals, savored a meal not prepared on the boat, and gained insight into the everyday life of a unique small community.

Now, we were headed toward Nootka Sound, ready to embrace solitude once more in this stunning and remote corner of the world.

Marty McOmber is a Pacific Northwest sailor, writer, and strategic communications professional. He is currently focused on refitting and enhancing his 1984 Passport 40, Rounder, in preparation for more cruising adventures near and far.