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Nestled between the British Columbia mainland and Vancouver Island, the Discovery Islands are a stunning cruiser’s paradise, located north of the Strait of Georgia and Desolation Sound, and south of Johnstone Strait. This beautiful region attracts boating enthusiasts and is considered one of the dream destinations for adventurers on the water.
The narrow passages between the Discovery Islands result in strong tidal currents, with notable rapids such as Seymour Narrows, Dent Rapids, and Hole in the Wall. Navigating these passages in a small boat requires meticulous attention to tide and current charts. It is highly recommended to transit during slack water for a safer experience. Once through, there are numerous opportunities for exploration and hiking among the islands, many of which offer breathtaking views.
Newton Lake, located near Granite Bay on the northwest corner of Quadra Island, is a favorite swimming destination for water enthusiasts like Karen, who thrives on getting into the water during her trips. The lake is surrounded by picturesque wilderness, with rocky areas along the shoreline that are perfect for launching into the water and basking in the sun afterward. Remarkably, there are three different boating routes to reach the lake, plus one access point by car.
After navigating through Seymour Narrows, you can anchor in Granite Bay and follow a gravel road that transitions into a rocky old logging route leading to the lake. This route is ideal for those who might drive to Granite Bay after taking the ferry from Campbell River. However, if you are arriving by boat, there are even better routes available.
The popular Octopus Islands, located in the northeast corner of Quadra Island, offer good anchorage options, though it can get crowded during peak times. Most boaters arrive via Surge Narrows or Hole in the Wall. Upon arrival, we often head to Waiatt Bay, which can accommodate numerous boats on a flat mud bottom, providing excellent holding despite being somewhat exposed to wind. The well-trodden trail leading to Newton Lake starts from Waiatt Bay, crossing a narrow isthmus to Small Inlet and then climbing gently to the lake’s elevation of 400 feet. The entire hike is about 3.7 miles round trip, depending on your chosen swimming spot.
Our absolute favorite route is from Small Inlet on the west side of Quadra Island, just north of Granite Bay. While there may be 70 boats at the Octopus Islands and Waiatt Bay, Small Inlet is often much less crowded with just a couple of boats. The entrance to Small Inlet is narrow and shallow, so deep-draft vessels need to be cautious during lower tides. The innermost cove only accommodates a few boats, creating an intimate anchoring spot. Reaching the inner cove requires navigating a winding passagewith hidden reefs. Once landed, we take a short path south to meet the trail connecting to Waiatt Bay. From Small Inlet, the round trip hike to Newton Lake is only 2.5 miles, making this anchorage particularly appealing. Regardless of where you dock, the hike to Newton Lake is rewarding, and finishing with a refreshing freshwater swim is the cherry on top.
Big Bay, located on the western coast of Stuart Island, is at the intersection of major rapids—Arran Rapids to the north, Yuculta Rapids to the south, with Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids to the west. Visiting Big Bay necessitates passing through one of these rapids.
This expansive bay is surrounded by private homes and resorts, renowned for the exceptional salmon fishing available in nearby waters. While it is mainly outside of the primary current flows, the rocky bottom makes anchoring challenging. We typically dock at the Stuart Island Community Dock, which has never been overcrowded, as most boaters zoom past en route to other destinations. However, Big Bay certainly deserves a stop.
A gravel road leads north from the public dock and small general store to a junction for Eagle Lake. A well-maintained trail leads from there to the lake and continues onward to Basset Cove on the island’s east side, with a round trip distance of approximately 4.5 miles if you choose to walk all the way to Basset Cove. What stands out most is Eagle Lake itself, aptly named with its stunning vistas. While hiking around the lake, we often startle bald eagles from their perches in the surrounding trees; on one occasion, we witnessed over 50 eagles taking flight simultaneously. This serene lake serves as their refuge when they aren’t busy fishing for salmon near the rapids. An additional perk is a swimming float on the lake, with a public rowboat available for anyone wishing to explore it.
At the north end of East Thurlow Island, you will find Shoal Bay, opening onto Cordero Channel. This location features a government dock with caretaker services and decent land facilities. However, anchoring here can be hit or miss, as the bay transitions quickly from deep to shallow waters. We typically stop here in June or September when dock space is more readily available.
There’s also a somewhat elusive hike that starts near the creek entering the bay, ascending to an incredible viewpoint overlooking Phillips Arm, adorned with snow-capped peaks. During this hike, you will even find a long-abandoned gold mine—a short climb from the viewpoint. Just a word of caution, though: if you explore the mine, be sure to bring a good flashlight, since a vertical shaft drops down about 15 feet just inside the entrance.
As you venture north, you’ll notice a predominant new hiking opportunity: abandoned logging roads. Following active logging, many of these roads provide excellent hiking paths, often revealing stunning views. They are well-marked, making it easy to navigate without getting lost. Bickley Bay, located on the north side of East Thurlow Island, proves to be an excellent starting point. When Shoal Bay is filled with boats and anchoring becomes a challenge, Bickley Bay typically accommodates just two or three vessels, and anchoring is effortless. We prefer this spot during the busier time of year for its tranquility.
At the entrance of Bickley Bay on the west shore, an obvious abandoned logging dump offers a place to land. It features a convenient access point, ensuring you can reach the shore at all tide levels. The logging road located in Bickley Bay leads south into the island’s interior, offering several side roads for exploration. During our last journey here, we paused when we encountered a recently logged area filled with stumps but few trees—an ideal spot for taking a break before retracing our steps. On this particular trail, we hiked 6.6 miles of easy terrain with a maximum elevation of only 440 feet, but there is still plenty left to uncover. We’ve visited this logging road several times and have yet to encounter another hiker.
As you cruise through the Discovery Islands this summer, whether you’re on your way to another destination or exploring this spectacular region, the various hikes and outdoor opportunities in the area provide the perfect reason to step off your boat and enjoy the natural beauty of the wilderness.
Michael and Karen have been dedicated cruisers of the Salish Sea and beyond for over 20 years, seizing every hiking opportunity that presents itself. For additional resources for hikers, visit their website at https://mvmischief.com/library/
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Oliver Hayes, a seasoned sailor and marine journalist from Southampton, has a profound love for the sea that has shaped his career. Holding a degree in Marine Journalism from the University of Portsmouth, Oliver is celebrated for his compelling and insightful storytelling. His work vividly captures the excitement of sailing and the rich maritime heritage of the United Kingdom, making him a respected figure in the sailing community. When not writing, Oliver enjoys exploring the British Isles’ diverse coastlines and participating in local regattas, always on the lookout for his next nautical adventure.
