Rediscovering Jedediah Island: A Homesteading Heritage #TBT

Every time we drop anchor at Jedediah Island, we fantasize about leaving behind the modern world and giving homesteading a try. Nestled between Lasqueti and Texada Islands in the picturesque Strait of Georgia, Jedediah Island once served that very purpose. It was purchased by the Foote family of Vancouver in 1890, who spent three decades clearing land, establishing a pasture, and building a home at Home Bay.

Over the years, the 600-acre island changed hands multiple times, transitioning from homesteading to a summer retreat. Most recently, it was the beloved home of Al and Mary Palmer, who purchased the island in 1949. After dedicating 20 years to full-time homesteading, the Palmers sold the island to the province of British Columbia, and in 1995, it was designated as a Marine Provincial Park.

Remnants of the Palmer family’s life, as well as previous owners, are still visible on the island. The cleared fields, while somewhat overgrown, still feature winding walking trails. The once orderly orchards have become wild, yet they continue to bear fruit. Exploring the island reveals crumbling structures that have fallen into disrepair, so caution is advisable. The descendants of the Palmers’ sheep and goats still roam freely across the island.

Our friend Leif first introduced us to Jedediah Island, and the mention of its feral sheep and goat population sparked our curiosity. Having grown up in Vermont, where cows vastly outnumber people, I have a deep fondness for farm animals. Each visit to the island has rewarded us with sightings of sheep and goats. While anchoring, we often catch a glimpse of goats perched on the cliffs, peering down at us, accompanied by the sounds of plaintive goat kids calling for their mothers as they become accustomed to the rocky terrain. As we make our way ashore, the trails are marked by their droppings, so we always keep our eyes peeled for small tufts of wool snagged on the low-hanging branches. Although they tend to keep their distance, we frequently spot sheep grazing along the edges of the orchard and pastures.

We’ve explored Jedediah Island at various times throughout the year, and the orchard never fails to surprise us with its seasonal offerings. In summer, wild apple and pear trees bear small fruits that ripen in the fall. During a visit in August with my in-laws, we discovered a couple of plum trees along the path leading to the house. A magnificent walnut tree, located east of the apple and pear trees, sheds its plentiful nuts in late fall, an exciting find during our brisk visit in November. (Please note: picking fruit from the orchard is not allowed.)

Winding trails crisscross the island, linking Deep Bay, Home Bay, Codfish Bay, and Long Bay. These paths are primarily wooded once you depart from the vicinity of the house, revealing towering trees overhead. Some areas among the trees are fenced off, marked with signs indicating that research groups are studying the impact of the grazing sheep and goats on the forest undergrowth. The visible difference between the fenced areas and the open spaces makes one ponder just how many sheep and goats inhabit Jedediah Island.

If you enjoy climbing, do not forget to pack your climbing shoes and chalk bag for a trip to Jedediah Island. The rugged terrain offers numerous hidden climbing opportunities, many requiring a bit of adventurous spirit, humorously referred to here as “adventure” due to the moss covering some routes. On one particularly memorable visit, we brought our climbing gear and traversed the short cliffs along the trail from Deep Bay to Home Bay. Navigating the crumbly terrain was slow, yet exhilarating as we discovered bouldering problems that likely few have attempted before.

During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, when crossing the U.S.-Canada border was heavily restricted, we relocated our J/40, Velella, from Point Roberts to Nanaimo. Although the journey from our home in Vancouver to the ferry and then to the boat often took over five hours, Jedediah Island’s proximity to Nanaimo made it a favored spot for weekend excursions.

We took four friends along on our visit over the B.C. Day long weekend in August. Mother Nature blessed us with stunning sunny skies and ideal wind conditions for a downwind sail to Jedediah. Our friends, all newbies to sailing but eager to learn, helped us hoist the spinnaker and trim the sails. We made excellent time on our crossing, encountering minimal boat traffic along the way.

For such a compact island, Jedediah offers an impressive array of anchorages, suitable for different boat drafts and weather conditions. Our boat, which draws 5 feet, 5 inches, can dock at most spots. Two of our favorite anchorages are Deep Bay and Codfish Bay. Located on the northwest side of Jedediah and nestled behind Paul Island, Deep Bay serves as the island’s only all-weather anchorage, making it the most popular spot that can fill up quickly during peak seasons. The cliffs lining its shores are equipped with chains for stern-tying (a necessity) that BC Parks diligently maintain. Space is limited, often accommodating 12 to 16 boats squeezed tightly together. Most anchorages on Jedediah require stern-tying, so be prepared with your stern line before you arrive.

Codfish Bay, positioned on the eastern side of the island just south of Home Bay, is less frequented, often providing a tranquil experience with only one or two other boats sharing the space. The bay opens to the southeast, while Circle Island offers some wind and wave protection from that direction, although it may become a bit choppy in strong winds. Both anchorages feature shore access at the head of the bay, leading directly to the island’s extensive trail network.

For boats with shallower drafts, Long Bay serves as an option but tends to become quite shallow. It’s conveniently located near a popular camping area on the island; however, it can be noisy at times. Like Deep Bay and Codfish Bay, Long Bay also has trailheads at its head.

Both Otter Cove and its neighbor, Sunset Cove, are open to the northwest and are best approached only during calm weather. White Rock Bay is another anchorage to consider during settled conditions, while Boom Bay is shallow with parts exposed at low tide and is not advisable for anchoring. Although anchoring in Little Bull Passage, located at the southwest end of the island between Jedediah and Bull Island, is an option, be prepared for strong currents.

Home Bay is generally too shallow for most vessels, with sections drying up at low tide. However, it’s an excellent spot for kayaking or taking a dinghy ride. Another favored camping location is situated near the sandy beach in Home Bay, directly across from the old homestead.

If you prefer to anchor outside of Jedediah Island, Boho Bay, situated just west on Lasqueti Island, is an excellent alternative. This anchorage is well-sheltered and only faces a slight risk of southeast winds entering the bay. Jedediah Island itself provides some cover from southeast winds and waves. It’s just a quick dinghy ride across to reach Deep Bay or Long Bay for convenient access to the island.

Now that Velella has returned to Point Roberts, Jedediah Island feels a bit out of reach for our once frequent weekend escapes. Still, I hope our next significant trip will lead us northward and facilitate a stop at Jedediah. I’m eager to see how the sheep and goats are faring and discover what new wonders the island offers.

Lauren Upham and her husband Ches call Vancouver, BC, home, and frequently cruise on their J/40, Velella, mainly embarking on short journeys to the San Juan or Gulf Islands.